Look years younger in only minutes… the essential skin triad.
There is no point going to the dentist if you don’t brush your teeth.
The same applies with daily skin care. If you’re considering treatments like botox or regular facials then the best results will be in conjunction with daily skin care. Daily skin care involves what I have termed the essential skin care triad.
By far, the most damaging influence on the skin, especially the facial skin, is exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun. UV comes in three “flavors”:
UVC, which is blocked by the Ozone Layer, short wave
UVB, which is worse in summer, especially on sunny days, and in the midday hours, and
UVA a long wave ultraviolet rays which penetrate deeply into the skin to damage collagen and elastic fibers.
The shorter wave UVB damages the upper layers (epidermis) of skin, and is the primary cause of tanning, sunburn, and skin cancer. UVB is partially blocked by clouds and the atmosphere. In contrast, longer wave UVA rays penetrate deeply into the skin to damage connective tissue elements and blood vessels.
The religious application of a sunscreen in the morning containing a high percentage of Zinc Oxide is the most important part of skin care. Zinc oxide is the best physical blocker of the sun and helps protect the skin against both UVB and UVA light, which damages the collagen in our skin. I recommend an Australian brand called Rationale which has 12.5% nanonised Zinc oxide.
Most sunscreens are primarily UVB blockers, and while they do protect from sunburn and reduce the incidence of most skin cancers with proper use, they aren’t as effective at blocking UVAs. The commonly used “SPF” refers only to UVB rays, and does not translate to UVA protection
Retinoids include the well known prescription medications such as Retin-A, Stieva A, Zorac and Retrieve and over-the-counter agents such as retinaldehyde, retinol and retinyl palmitate. Retinoids act on the DNA of the living layers of the skin to reverse the signs and symptoms of sun damage and skin aging (”photoaging”). The effects including:
- Reduction of fine lines and improves skin hydration with increased production of hyaluronic acid thus “plumping” the skin and improving the appearance wrinkles
- Improved skin texture by increasing cell turnover in the upper layers of skin which also decrease the formation of blocked and enlarged pores;
- Improved skin complexion/discolouration, including yellowing, bronzing, and brown spots.
- Increased collagen production and repair
All Retiniods must be used for at least 4 months before the beneficial effects are realised. The full beneficial effects of retinoid treatment may not be realised for 6 to 12 months.
Over the counter agents such as retinol (vitamin A) have no activity until they are converted in the skin to retinoic acid (Retin-A).. However, well-designed retinaldehyde products such as the Avene Anti-aging range and Rationale Skincare do provide a potentially less irritating alternative.
Because retinoids are broken down by bright light, they should always be applied in the evening, and because retinoids make the skin sun-sensitive, a sunscreen with at least 4-5% zinc oxide should be used regularly. Irritation and redness is not unusual in the first few months, and the frequency of application can be increased gradually, moisturizers will help with this.
Oxidants or free radicals are produced by the normal aging process, UVA and UVB sunlight, pollution and the process that involves extracting energy out of nutrients (oxidation). To act against damage from free radicals the body produces Antioxidants.
The most widely used topical antioxidant is Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic acid, L-ascorbate), essential for collagen synthesis and UV protection. For a Vitamin C preparation to be effective it must be stable, acidic and non-irritating. Vitamin C reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, decrease skin roughness, and evens out skin tone.
Other popular antioxidants used topically include idebenone, green tea extract, Vitamin E, beta- carotene, ferulic acid, alpha-lipoic acid, and Coenzyme Q10.
In Summary the application of a good quality sunscreen containing Zinc oxide in the morning and the application of a Retinoid and an Antioxidant at night are the very basics of a medical proven skin care regime.
This article was written by Dr Joseph Ajaka from Cosmos Cosmetic Clinic, a fully qualified Doctor, who has been practicing Cosmetic medicine for the last 5 years. He is a respected cosmetic physician who has appeared on Today Tonight , featured in Harpers Bazar, Madison, Cleo, Bride to Be, New Women and Slimming and Health. Specialising in injectables, skin care, laser work and anti-aging. His passion is to maintain the natural beauty of his clients with minimally invasive procedures.
For more information contact the Cosmos Cosmetic Clinic
